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When curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. But, situated high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family utterly surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.